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Phil Mellows is a freelance |
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Look out for my new book Beer Breaks in Britain, co-authored with travel writer Kate Simon and published by Bloomsbury, in bookshops from February 2025 or order online now here. |
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Whatever
happened to the J-shaped curve? This
article first appeared in the Propel Info newsletter on April 28. 2023 At
the fag-end of the 19th century, when the temperance movement in the UK
was about to reach its zenith, a Dr Joseph Mortimer Granville wrote to
The Times declaring that, on the contrary, people weren’t drinking
enough. Abstinence and moderation were, in fact, making them ill. His
letter was unearthed
a few years ago by geographer-of-drink James Kneale, who speculated that
Granville was courting controversy to win friends and drum up business,
like an early celebrity medic – and he did subsequently put his name
to adverts for port wine. Kneale, by the way, does not believe that
Granville did what he is most famous for, which is inventing the
vibrator. The
idea that alcohol might be good for you didn’t go away though. From
the 1970s, it has circled around research that suggests taking a certain
amount of drink is protective against heart disease – presented
graphically as a J-shaped curve in which the left point of the J are
abstainers who are dying younger than those who drink – but not too
much. That
theory is fiercely contested, and a
thoughtful article
by science journalist Tim Requarth in American online magazine Slate
this week wonders whether the curve has been flattened for good by
growing evidence of the link between drinking and some cancers. The
culprit here is not alcohol itself but acetaldehyde, a chemical produced
by the body as a by-product of metabolising alcohol, something that
humanity’s ancestors evolved to do some ten million years ago to
enable them to eat rotting fruit on the forest floor. At least according
to the ‘drunken monkey thesis’, which sounds good to me. So,
while scientists might accept the J-shaped curve applies to heart
disease, its benefits are outweighed by the cancer. That view lies
behind Canada’s
decision
earlier this year to not only tighten its recommended drinking
guidelines, but to assert that because alcohol/acetaldehyde is a known
carcinogen, there can be no safe level of alcohol consumption. This
was already the World Health Organisation’s position, but Canada’s
move caught the headlines. You can spend a lot of time and effort
picking apart the data behind this. In short, it remains contested.
I’m not going to go there, but I’ll make some general points. My
first thought is that the ‘no threshold’ argument, if you really
mean the tiniest amount is dangerous, seems daft. Alcohol is present in
all kinds of daily foodstuffs, from bread to fruit. You can’t avoid
it. It also sounds like a bad position for the medical profession to
take. I do think guidelines can be helpful when someone is damaging
their health by drinking too much and needs to cut down. Telling them
the only hope is to abstain completely is not going to play well. And
the risk for moderate drinkers of contracting alcohol-related cancer is
very small. Requarth points out that, “if 143 middle-aged men drink
once a day, there might be, in the near-term, one additional death”.
Bad luck, of course, if you’re that one. But it puts the argument into
perspective. A
bigger problem with epidemiological studies is that they rarely take
into account social contexts. We know nothing about the behaviours
behind the numbers, the way people drink. Health is not just about what
you put into your body, and assessing the impact of drinking goes beyond
chemical reactions. We are not lab rats. And
we know that social interaction is vital to our well-being. Going to the
pub is a healthy thing to do. The interesting puzzle is, does that have
to involve alcohol? Can we remove it and get the same benefits? Now that
would be an anthropological question, as Father Jack might say. It must
be significant that where human beings began to live in settled
communities, around 10,000 years ago, we also find evidence of brewing
and of places where people could gather, much like a pub. Perhaps
we have always known that our essential society with others –
conversation, a bit of singing and dancing – is lubricated by a drop
of some mild, disinhibiting, psychoactive substance. And it seems to me
that the social benefits make for a better argument than a purely
medicinal one when it comes to defending drinking against those who
would curtail our pleasures. I
just don’t think the battle for the J-shaped curve is winnable any
more than Joseph Mortimer Glanville’s quackery. Claiming that booze is
medicine can perhaps win you friends, but how are you going to get
people, each of whom react differently to it, to take the precise dosage
required? Arguing about alcohol without understanding drinking as a
social activity is going to get you nowhere. Phil
Mellows, April 28, 2023 Previously: Whatever happened to the J-shaped curve? The
joy of loitering Larry Nelson and the challenge of trade journalism What we'll be losing if pubs disappear Latest
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